SONOMA COUNTY’S up-and-coming gem

When it comes to wine, oenophiles like to talk about terroir, that fancysounding term for the overall environment that helps shape the quality of the grapes.

I’d argue that terroir is equally important when it comes to selecting a wine country vacation. Where you are matters. Beautiful scenery, proximity to tasting rooms, a high calibre of food and lodgings — these ingredients can be just as crucial as what ends up in your glass.

All of the above can be found in Healdsburg, an ideal base for a California wine country getaway. Just about an hour’s drive north of San Francisco’s Golden Gate Bridge, this longtime farming community, which once touted itself as the “buckle of the prune belt,” has grown into the grape gem of Sonoma County.

More than 80 wineries and tasting rooms call Healdsburg home, where you’ll also find a lauded culinary scene, including the three-Michelin-starred SingleThread and a handful of recently launched eateries by that restaurant’s alums.

“The community really supports people branching out and trying something new,” says former SingleThread general manager Jonny Barr, who opened his Cal-Italian restaurant, Molti Amici, this summer. His large patio draws patrons who pile in for the wood-fired pizzas, creative cocktails and egg yolk ravioli (order early because it routinely sells out).

And, of course, for the wine. Beyond the boundaries of the city itself, some of California’s best grape-growing regions surround Healdsburg (pronounced with a long e, like “heel”). Alexander Valley churns out rich Cabernets. Dry Creek Valley is known for robust Zinfandels. Russian River Valley’s Burgundy-like climate translates into award-winning Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays.

Healdsburg’s location in northern Sonoma County makes a convenient jumping-off point to visit destination vineyards like Jordan Vineyard & Winery, a 485-hectare estate whose Cabernets and Chardonnays are made on-site in a French-inspired chateau.

Even more convenient: Dozens of wineries have outposts within easy walking distance of Healdsburg’s city centre. “There are so many great tasting rooms in this town, from Marine Layer to Lioco to BloodRoot,” says Barr, perhaps the only person on the planet whose resumé includes being an ex-pro wrestler and a certified sommelier. “You get spoiled living here.”

Travellers who want to sleep among grapevines and oak groves can check into Montage Healdsburg, which opened in 2021, adding a layer of luxury to a lodging scene once dominated by lacy B&Bs. The 130 guest rooms and suites, each with their own balcony, feel like tiny villas; an expansive spa, two pools and several drinking and dining areas round out the retreat.

Another player is poised to open next year: the 108-room Appellation, a new “food-first hotel brand” co-founded by Charlie Palmer. The famed chef played a key role in diverting some of the culinary spotlight from nearby Napa Valley when he opened Dry Creek Kitchen at Hotel Healdsburg more than 20 years ago.

Despite a spate of developments and an ever-growing roster of acclaimed restaurants, this city with a population just shy of 12,000 hasn’t lost its small-town charm. At least part of the credit for that goes to the 19th-century plaza anchoring the downtown.

Soaring redwoods and palm trees form a canopy over the grassy square, where locals set up lawn chairs and picnic blankets for concerts in the summer. Art galleries, independent boutiques and restaurants radiate from the pedestrianfriendly plaza, along with plenty of tasting rooms.

One of many tasting rooms meriting a short drive from downtown is Twomey. The sleek facility’s floor-to-ceiling windows and outdoor terrace face tidy rows of Russian River Valley vines and the gentle slopes of Sonoma County mountains.

“This is my favourite wine for getting a sense of place,” says tasting room associate Julie Fadda, pouring Twomey’s Russian River Valley Pinot Noir. “It’s a thin-skinned grape, so it really picks up what’s around it.”

Not surprisingly, it tastes great.