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JAPAN IN A GLASS

Food writer Nancy Matsumoto’s fascination with sake began a decade ago when she was writing about sake culture in New York City. “Sake is the 2,000-year-old ancient beverage of Japan, made by fermenting rice with water, yeast and a fungus called koji kin,” she explains. “People don’t realize how good craft sake is today, and that a lot of it is available right here in Toronto.”

Matsumoto, above, teamed up with sake sommelier and educator Michael Tremblay to help spread the word with a new book, “Exploring the World of Japanese Craft Sake.”

“Good craft sake is an expression of the land, the brewer’s deep passion and finely honed technique,” she says. “It reveals the heart and soul of Japan in a glass. And it’s absolutely delicious.” The book combines a Japanese travelogue with stories from master brewers, brewing families, farmers, researchers and bartenders.

In the mood to sip some yourself? Matsumoto shares her go-to sake spots from across the city and what to eat and drink there.

Sakai Bar, 1576 Dundas St. W. “Owner-bartender Stu Sakai will guide you through his deep sake list and recommend his favourites du jour: perhaps a crisp and light Mutsu Hassen from Hachinohe Brewery or a robust and savoury Shichi Hon Yari from Tomita Brewery. Chef Eric McDonald brings an artist’s eye and palate to his refined Japanese dishes.”

Ki Modern Japanese + Bar, 181 Bay St. “Well-versed servers will help you pick from the constantly changing 60- to 80-bottle list that spans the Japanese archipelago. Look for best-selling labels from Masumi, Dewazakura, Bunkajin, Tedorigawa and Tatenokawa, and select from Chef Hing Wong’s extensive menu. Highlights include his modern nigiri — hamachi with garlic-leek miso, pickled kumquat and goji berry — hot plates and hearty izakaya snacks.”

Izumi Brewery (Ontario Spring Water Sake Co.),

51 Gristmill Lane “Toronto’s only sake brewery is back to operating its tasting counter. You can try Izumi’s full lineup of sakes — their small-batch unpasteurized arabashiri is my favourite, while the best-seller is the fruity Nama Nama — along with snacks like pickled vegetables and beef jerky made at Sakai Bar. The patio is open on summer weekends.”

Aka-Oni Ramen & Izakaya, 633 Silver Star Blvd., Scarborough “Highly polished and refined junmai daiginjo sakes from Okunomatsu and from star brewer Hidehiko Matsumoto are big sellers from the huge list here, often paired with uni and other raw fish and shellfish. But if you go for the Angus beef tataki or Wagyu skewers, a savoury Tengumai umajun would be a great choice.”

Imanishi Japanese Kitchen, 1330 Dundas St. W.

“The cuisine here is modern, homestyle, delicious takes on crowdpleasers like tempura-battered and deep-fried corn kakiage and Nagoya-style garlic- and soy-saucelacquered tebasaki chicken wings. Anything from the menu will taste great with sake from the tightly focused and always-changing list. Look for bottles from some of my favourite producers, including Mitobe, Otokoyama, Masumi and Jikon.”

TOGETHER

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2022-05-22T07:00:00.0000000Z

2022-05-22T07:00:00.0000000Z

https://torontostar.pressreader.com/article/282342568454806

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