Food expert’s primer on sheet pans for everything

Ricardo Larrivée explains what you need to know about this essential tool

When Quebec-based food writer and TV personality Ricardo Larrivée’s wife and business partner, Brigitte Coutu, suggested sheet pans as the topic of his next cookbook, he initially laughed off the idea — but then he thought twice. As all-knowing Google searches tell us, sheet pans are trending up, and for good reason: They’re inexpensive and perfect for quick meals, and most people already have at least one.

“Sheet pans are so versatile,” says Larrivée, who wanted to see how far he could push this tool. “It’s a type of cooking anyone can appreciate because it’s simple — it doesn’t require any big skills — [but] you can cook something that looks very fancy.”

For proof, just look to “Sheet Pan Everything,” which hit shelves this spring. In it, Larrivée details hearty, easy-to-recreate recipes requiring just a sheet pan to cook, from crispy pita chips to sweet and sour miso salmon to a jumbo-sized blueberry pancake (a Larrivée family favourite).

The book also offers up essential info about the different types of sheet pans since they’re not all created equal. Although Larrivée says it’s hard to go wrong, regardless of what you have at home, here’s a quick rundown of this go-tool kitchen tool.

The sheet pan: Non-stick Best for: Anything

“No matter what you stick on a non-stick pan, it will cook really well,” says Larrivée of his hands-down favourite option. “You can normally get one for an acceptable price, and they’re easy to clean.” He also likes that the average non-stick pan is made of strong enough material that when their shape twists under the heat of an oven, they’ll likely return to their original form once cool.

The sheet pan: Aluminum Best for: Nonacidic foods Like non-stick pans, aluminum ones can technically suit any type of cooking, but Larrivée warns there are a few caveats. The darker your pan, the quicker it’ll absorb heat, making for a faster cooking time. That might require adjusting a recipe, so keep an eye on your chocolate chip cookies. If you prefer your pans pristine, Larrivée also recommends avoiding cooking acidic foods or squeezing lemon juice on them as a finishing ingredient on dishes. The acid could react with the metal, resulting in discolouration or potentially even altering flavours slightly.

The sheet pan: Textured Best for: Evenly baked goods Textured sheet pans feature grooves to help prevent baked goods from sticking to their surface.

“Quite often, they’re also bigger and heavier, so the heat distribution is going to be very good — you’ll [be able to get] that golden colour,” says Larrivée. Again, darker pans make for faster-than-expected cooking times, so he suggests opting for a lighter one. Because these pans tend to be heavier, they’re more likely to keep their shape and could last longer, too.

The sheet pan: Cast iron Best for: Grilling

Here’s something you may not have considered: You can even do sheet-pan cooking on your barbecue. Cast-iron sheet pans can withstand an open flame, so you can, say, grill up an entire chicken dinner — sides and all — in one go.

Larrivée even recommends taking a cast-iron sheet pan on your next camping trip. Just remember to care for it properly: “I’ll rub a little oil on it (after cooking) to prevent rust and keep it nice for years to come.”